Ivana Stefanović - 7 700 words
From the scenic landscapes of Scandinavia to the heart of the Mediterranean Sea, this overnight rail journey will take you to seven different cities, making it an experience to remember. There is nothing more exciting than getting on a train that traverses routes that wouldn’t be accessible by other means of transportation. And just like that, after a night in a sleeper train, you wake up in another country to something completely different from the place you’d left the night before. Before you start reading, let me warn you that by the end of this rail adventure you might be getting itchy feet and a strong desire to set on a rail odyssey.
The Narvik region, situated in northern Norway, is a unique destination to visit. Stunning nature and astonishing scenery as far as the eye can see is what makes this region so special. In the wintertime, this place is perfect to experience the Northern Lights. If, however, you happen to be here in the summer, there are many hiking options and activities that offer an authentic nature experience. During summer, you’ll also get to witness a natural phenomenon called the midnight sun. Since the sun never sets, finding a nice spot to look at the sun on the horizon all night long is an experience you won’t find elsewhere. If you’re a romantic soul, you’ll find some really nice places in this region to watch the midnight sun. But, if you happen to be in a group of Norwegians who offer you some shots of Icelandic drink Brennivin, known also as “Black death”, burning sun on the horizon will be nothing compared to your burnt senses.
Before leaving Narvik, I wanted to bid my farewell by marveling once again at its majestic mountains and fjords from the top of the Narvikfjellet mountain. I took the cable car in the center of Narvik and during this short ride I allowed myself to fully enjoy a panoramic view of the city as it was taking me all the way up. The views from the top are wonderful and there are several viewing platforms from where you can admire a natural beauty of this place. It is not surprising that so many people choose to have a picnic here. However, if you’d rather be inside, the Mountain Restaurant 656m will give you that view from the above. This is also a great place where you can take a short break after skiing or hiking while enjoying your drink or some of the local dishes.
My train for Stockholm was leaving at 15.15, so I needed to get back to the city. Luckily, Narvik is a pretty small town, and so is the train station. As a result of this, the process of boarding the train was quite relaxed. As the train was leaving this most northern railway station in Europe making its way up to the mountains, I started unpacking in my compartment. I was really excited about this 18-hour journey on a night train operated by the Swedish rail company SJ. Considered to be one of the most inspiring rides in Europe, my expectations were high, so I decided to book a private sleeping compartment just for myself to enjoy this ride to the fullest.
A private compartment is not too big and although it can accommodate 1 to 3 people, having more than 2 would make it rather tight. I put my suitcase on one of the two luggage racks next to the unfolded top bed, but if you have more bags, I saw storage areas in the corridor that can be used as well. The door of the compartment can be locked from inside and a key card will be provided, so there is no need to worry about your belongings if you decide to head to the restaurant or while you’re in the shower. The compartment has a washbasin, which can be useful to brush your teeth or wash your hands and face, but if you need a toilet or to take a shower, you will find them in the corridor. With the key card provided to sleeper passengers only, you will have access to a surprisingly spacious shower that offers lots of towels, a hair dryer, and a heater that can be turned on if you’re cold. Therefore, if you decide to have a private concert in the shower, there’s plenty of room for that. Consequently, we had Beyoncé at one point in the shower who inspired two more passengers to put on a show as well. Too bad there were no more showers, as a SJ duet or trio could’ve been easily formed.
Both the shower and toilets were very clean; however, having a private bathroom in the compartment would have been so much better. You wouldn’t have to deal with all the fans waiting for you to get out of the shower just to get your autograph. Unlike other Swedish trains that offer a 1st class sleeper compartment with an en suite bathroom, only 2nd class sleeper compartments can be booked on this route at the moment. Once the process of modernization of SJ trains is over, maybe I’ll decide to repeat this journey in a new sleeper. All the scenic views I saw from the train would be worth going on another trip. Connecting the harbors of Narvik and Luleå on the Baltic Sea with the iron ore mine cities on this route was the main reason for the making of the railway. And today, this trip is one of the most spectacular ones, allowing the train travelers to enjoy in a stunning landscape from the Rombak fjord to Torne Träsk lake and Swedish forests.
After a swift border control between Norway and Sweden, at the stop in Riksgränsen, I went to the restaurant to check the food you could get on the train, as I was planning on having dinner later that evening. The selection of different types of drinks and snacks is wide, and if you want to eat a hot meal on the train, the staff will warm it up for you. There are also sandwiches, so I pretty much decided what I’d be getting the next morning. Breakfast is not included in the price, so you can either buy some food in Narvik and take it with you on the train or buy food in the restaurant car. Coffee was decent and once you pay for coffee, you can refill as much as you want. Also, I’d recommend buying some water before the trip, as you’ll be provided only with one pack of water.
Falling asleep might be a problem because in the summer it never gets totally dark. The good thing though is that there is a roller blind on the window that you can use to darken your compartment. But before I did that, I wanted to enjoy for a while in the view from the middle bed that was already made with fresh sheets, a nice pillow and soft duvet. There is also a safety net that you can attach to your bed if you want to. Next to the bed there is a net where you can put your mobile, book, or anything you want to keep at hand. If you choose to read, above the head you’ll find a reading lamp and sockets if you need to charge your phone.
The night I spent in a private compartment felt quite cozy and nice, and you can even set the temperature of the compartment if you’re cold. On my way to the restaurant car, this time to get some breakfast, I took a look at the couchette. Up to six people can sleep in a couchette which seemed to offer enough space. However, for a long journey such as this one, I wanted to feel comfortable and have access to the shower, which passengers of the couchette don’t have. Once I bought my breakfast treats, I headed back to the compartment where I served them on a small folding table, while making sure I had everything packed; especially the clothes I’d left hanging on the hooks. For the last hour of the trip I could just relax and enjoy my morning coffee with a view.
After arriving to Stockholm half an hour after the planned arrival time at 9:20, I looked first for a luggage storage where I could leave my suitcase. I was eager to spend some time outside and walk around the city after so many hours spent on the train. I had a whole day ahead of me and several places I wanted to visit. I was told that seeing Gamla Stan, the old city of Stockholm, was a must-see attraction, and since it was only 15 minutes away from the train station I decided to start from there.
With a little bit of imagination, walking down the oldest street in Stockholm can be sort of a time travel experience. With its winding, cobbled streets and narrow alleys, some parts of the old city center really conjure up images of medieval Sweden. I spent two hours simply admiring charming houses and exploring places that had so much character. After a nice walk I was ready to change the streets of Stockholm for its roofs. Early afternoon was reserved for a slightly different perspective of the city. A rooftop guided tour on top of the old Parliament building was quite an experience. The tour is completely safe as you are secured all the time with safety equipment. So, if you’re not afraid of heights, I suggest you hear the story of this place and its people while enjoying the views from above.
After getting a little adrenalin kick on this tour, I was definitely looking for something more peaceful and a place to ‘fika’. Going for a ‘fika’ is an important part of the Swedish culture, which means to take a break to be with your friends or colleagues while drinking coffee and eating cake or pastry. With so many bustling cafés offering a variety of tasty looking pasties, I totally understood why ‘fika’ pause is on Stockholm residents’ daily schedule.
After having some delicious snacks, I was looking forward to visiting the largest photography museum in the world.
Dedicated solely to contemporary photography, Fotografiska Museum always has some great exhibitions which I’m sure you’ll find interesting, whether you have a particular interest in photography or not. Sometimes things need to be put in a different perspective for people to look beyond what they see. Try to keep an open mind as you immerse yourself in the art of observation. Revealing a moment captured on a photograph can sometimes be quite moving or intimate, and it will surely be a unique experience. Once you’re finished, you can go to the museum’s restaurant and café with a view over the harbor and city to enjoy some food or drinks. It’s a nice way to end your visit and give yourself some time to soak it all in before moving on to the next attraction/activity you have planned.
My dinner plans took me back to Gamla Stan, specifically to Den Gyldene Freden Restaurant. Owned by the Swedish Academy, this restaurant continues the legacy built on 300-year long history and some classic Swedish food served here.
Opened in 1722, it is claimed to be one of the oldest restaurants in the world. Whether this is true or not, its historical setting and authentic decoration, as well as friendly staff, create an inviting atmosphere. Once a week, the Academy members have their dinner here, where, if the rumors are true, they decide who will get the Nobel prizes. If you wish to spend a pleasant evening and try some Swedish traditional flavors, make sure you make a reservation because finding a table might be difficult if you decide to just show up.
My train for Malmö wasn’t leaving until 23:10, so I wasn’t in a rush to get back to the train station. After having a drink in one of the local pubs located in the vibrant streets packed with tourists and locals, it was time to say goodbye to Stockholm. Back at the train station it was quite easy to get around and find the platform since everything was very well marked. My overnight journey to Malmö wasn’t going to be a long one as the arrival time was planned for 6am, so I wanted to get as much sleep as possible in a private SJ first-class sleeper compartment I had booked.
As soon as the train left the station, I started getting ready for bed. There is plenty of room to store your luggage away or hang your clothes up, and when it comes to beds, you will find a ready-made bed with clean sheets, a pillow and duvet. If you fancy sleeping on more than one pillow, on the top racks you will find some extra pillows that you can use. The main advantage though of a first-class compartment was having an en suite bathroom just for myself. It is basic and small, definitely not enough space for a concert, but the comfort of taking a shower in a private bathroom was definitely worth it. Equipped with a shower and toilet, as well as towels and soap, there isn’t much more you could ask for. A first-class private sleeper compartment felt just like staying in a private hotel room, only much smaller.
With less than 7 hours to rest on this overnight ride, it seemed that everyone had already gone to bed. It was really quiet on the train, so I decided to skip my night reading, turn off the light above the bed and hit the pillow. The train arrived at the Malmö Central railway station in the early hours, so the breakfast included in the price of the first-class ticket wasn’t provided on the train. Instead, I got to see the city waking up from the Scandic Kramer hotel restaurant located only a few minutes’ walk from the station where an excellent breakfast buffet was served. Arriving early in the morning means that not many people would be there, so you’ll get to enjoy your morning coffee and breakfast in peace.
My day plans for the city of Malmö included meeting up with a friend and zero activities in this city. I didn’t find anything too interesting to do in Malmö, so I thought we should go and spend some time in Copenhagen. I brought my suitcase with me, since I was going to leave it in the car; but, if you decide to leave your bags at the train station, there are storage lockers of all sizes available to you. With a first-class ticket you also have access to SJ lounge, both in Stockholm and Malmö, where you can spend time before or after your journey. You can have some non-alcoholic drinks and snacks there, Wi-Fi for any work you might need to get done, and power sockets to charge your electronic devices. However, do check the opening hours, because the lounge is not open on all days and closes mid evening.
From Malmö to Copenhagen it takes half an hour to get there by car and about the same by train that leaves every 20 minutes. One of the places not to be missed In Copenhagen, especially during summer, is Nyhavn. A small port in the center of Copenhagen is a favorite place among tourists and locals who can enjoy in a relaxed, yet lively atmosphere. Pick a spot in one of the cafés and restaurants by the canal, or simply grab a drink and sit by the waterfront to enjoy its friendly vibe. If you have time, you can join a walking, bus or bike tour, or even go on a boat cruise from Nyhavn and learn more about this picturesque neighborhood. The whole area is a true melting pot with many historical and cultural places to visit, so exploring it never gets boring. You will find it easy to blend in with the locals, so just relax and let yourself soak up the excitement of this pulsating city. No matter what you are in a mood to do, I am sure that Copenhagen will live up to your expectations.
You can choose to wander along one of the longest shopping areas on Stroget street or visit one of the flea markets open in the summer where high quality antiques and collectibles can be found. My friend took me to the Thorvaldsen Flea Market which always attracts many visitors: experienced antique hunters searching for unique items, enthusiasts looking for exceptional finds, and passers-by who simply take a moment to observe the atmosphere and beautiful surroundings.
After feasting our eyes on some amazing antique curiosities, we headed to Torvehallerne, one of the popular food markets, to feast our stomachs too. Opened in 2011, this place has become a popular one for many Danes to sit down with friends and catch up over tasty food offered by many shops and restaurants. Everything from Danish pastries and delicacies to fresh fruits, vegetables, great sushi and meat can be found here. Copenhagen is known for its reputation of being the food capital of the north, so whatever food there is to try – you name it, they’ll have it.
The exciting day in Hans Christian Andersen’s fairytale city of Copenhagen really flew by and we needed to get back to Malmö in time for me to catch a 5pm train to Berlin. The sleeper train from Malmö to Berlin, known as the Berlin Night Express, operates in summer only and runs three times a week from late June to late August.
Due to a growing demand for night train travels between Sweden and Germany, the operator Snälltåget announced that in 2020 a daily overnight train will be introduced during summer months. In terms of sleeping accommodation, the night train offers only 6-berth couchettes, and you can choose to book a berth in a shared compartment or reserve the whole compartment for yourself or your family. I chose the latter one because I knew their compartments were rather narrow and on a journey that takes almost 14 hours, I knew I’d be doing a fair bit of writing on the train for which I needed some alone time.
Before boarding the train in Malmö, I had to show my ticket and passport first. Everything went smoothly and I quickly found my way to the compartment which was in a day mode with three seats folded out on both sides and packages of water waiting on the table. On the middle folded down beds, I found sheets, pillows and blankets, so you’d be set for the night. This overnight train doesn’t offer much in terms of services; however, what makes this journey unique is being on a train shunted onto a ferry crossing the Baltic Sea.
The route from the Sweden's southernmost town’s port in Trelleborg to Sassnitz in Germany takes approximately four hours. You can stay of course on the train during the ferry crossing, or you can stretch your legs and explore the views from the ferry.
When booking your ticket for the night train you have an option to pre-order your buffet on the ferry. Since there is no food service or a restaurant car on the night train, eating a hot meal on this ferry might be your only option unless you’d bought some food at the Malmö Central station and brought it with you.
After dining in a ferry restaurant and having a few drinks from the bar while enjoying the view of the sea, it was nearly time to go back to my compartment. Seeing a train on tracks inside a ferry and next to other vehicles that are being transported is not something you get to see too often. That is why the combination of this rail and sail journey adds up to the whole experience and makes it so special. After arriving to Germany, the train stayed for a while in the port of Sassnitz, but I’m not sure how long it waited there since I’d already fallen asleep. Despite the fact that couchettes are a bit older and far from luxurious, the Berlin Night express will allow you to travel a long distance at the cost of one night at a hotel. You will arrive to Berlin early in the morning ready to start the day. The only real disadvantage on this route was the lack of a shower.
The next morning, I arrived in Berlin at 06:45 rested and with some great plans for a day ahead. This early in the morning though, I was only thinking about getting some nice breakfast and fresh coffee. When booking your ticket for the night train you do have a possibility to pay for a take-away breakfast. This sounds as a really good option, especially if you don’t want to spend time trying to find a place to eat as soon as you get off the train. However, if you prefer to take time to enjoy your first meal of the day in a nice coffee shop, then be sure that in Berlin you can find several places with an early breakfast that are not too far from the Berlin Hauptbahnhof train station.
After leaving my suitcase in a storage locker at the train station, I decided to walk to Café Bondi where I was going to eat breakfast. I knew this place was good, so I skipped the option of purchasing a take-away breakfast. Instead, I decided to feel the city waking up as I took a stroll to the café, passing by early morning commuters and runners. There is always something special about having a fresh start of the day as every city brings different feelings and expectations. If I was to judge the city just by an early breakfast at Café Bondi, I’d know only good things awaited me. With a laid-back atmosphere, this place allows you to choose your fresh and tasty breakfast from the menu: eggs prepared in any way you’d like, avocado toast, waffle, fresh juices and excellent coffee and tea. Offering a lot of good food options, they really have a breakfast for every palate. Therefore, I took time to savor all the food before starting with the activities I had planned for the day.
Summertime usually invites you to be outside as much as possible, so visiting the East Side Gallery, the longest open-air gallery in the world, was a perfect combination of discovering over one hundred original mural paintings while walking along the former Berlin Wall. Established one year after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the East Side Gallery has become a historic landmark and a visual testimony of the history of Germany and Berlin. You will see many people taking photos of some amazing graffiti paintings, including “The Mortal Kiss” by Dmitri Vrubel or Birgit Kinders’s “Berlin Wall Trabant” breaking through the wall, which are probably the most popular ones and known to everyone, even if you’ve never visited the gallery. In 2009 the whole East Side Gallery was restored inviting the artists who originally created the paintings to repaint them. As you discover the paintings, you’ll notice a strong message of freedom expressed in almost all of them.
The afternoon hours were reserved for a kayak tour I always wanted to go on, just to experience the views of the city from Berlin waters on a sunny day. I’m not sure from where to start as this tour definitely didn’t turn out the way I’d imagined. Enthralled by the romantic picture I created in my mind, of me being on the river and enjoying the views of Berlin, I disregarded one “minor” detail - I actually needed to paddle on this tour. I was paired with another solo traveler, given a life vest, and after a brief instruction, we were ready to kayak off into Berlin’s rivers. After only 15 minutes of paddling it felt as if we’d been doing it for hours. The woman I got to share my experience with wasn’t such a great kayaker either, so we were both really awful at trying to keep up with our group. As we were too busy trying not to go too right or too left while avoiding hitting other kayaks on the river, I missed all the great views I actually thought I would get to enjoy. Instead, I got to enjoy all the bridges we went under as I literally touched most of them as we tried to push ourselves away. At least people standing on those bridges thought we were having fun and were worth taking a picture since we just couldn’t stop laughing.
What turned out to be a solo tour on the river finished a bit later than planned because we never caught up with the rest of kayakers. My paddling skills left me soaking wet, so when I finally reached the land, I realized I’d be spending the rest of the day looking quite “charming”, at the very least. I admit that the tour didn’t go as I planned, but I cannot deny the fact that I had a lot of fun. The only thing I would do differently next time is actually finding someone to paddle for me. That would’ve saved me from muscle soreness and pain I felt in my arms for the next couple of days. On second thought, maybe going on a boat cruise is a better idea; I’d get to take my photos of the city while staying dry and pain free. Since the tour ended in Tiergarten park, I got to enjoy strolling through the park while getting dry at the same time.
Close to the city center, the park offers beautiful green spaces to be enjoyed, as well as some cultural sights and museums close by that you can check if you have time. Also, there are some restaurants in Tiergarten or near the park where you can have a break from all the sightseeing and get some food. When in Berlin, trying currywurst is a must. You can eat it at a restaurant or get it from street food vendors which are also really good. After eating mine and thanking with each bite for its invention, I was ready to go to the train station.
The ÖBB Nightjet train operated by the Austrian Federal Railways departures from Berlin Hbf at 18:40 and arrives in Vienna at 07:00. Back at the train station, the biggest problem for me was dragging my suitcase to the platform as my arms hurt really bad. I was truly hoping there would be someone to help a damsel in distress and help me with my suitcase. I found my hero in a kind train attendant who was there to show me a way to my deluxe compartment while taking care of my suitcase. A deluxe sleeper had enough space for me to turn it into a wardrobe, as storing my luggage away on the upper racks was mission impossible. It was still in a daytime position with three seats and a fruit drink, small bottle of wine and water on the table. I was also provided with a wish list with all the items offered for breakfast. Up to 6 items are included in the price, but if you wish to add anything else, you can do so for €1,20 per unit.
When the train attendant came to check the ticket, he also collected the breakfast order form. I used the opportunity to ask for my compartment to be switched to a sleeping mode, as I was looking forward to just lying down and relaxing in my bed. However, before getting tucked in I was planning on taking a long shower in my private bathroom. Having a shower, sink and toilet in my compartment made my day. The bathroom is not too big but is quite functional. With a washbasin that can be turned from one side to another, you can make some extra room while keeping it away from the shower, or the other way around when you need to use the toilet. With clean towels provided and slippers, I almost had a homey feeling. I say almost because I think that having a fluffy bathrobe would’ve made it just perfect.
A goodie bag included also a small snack and ear plugs for sleeping peacefully throughout the night. Since this ride takes more than 12 hours you should consider bringing some food since there isn’t a restaurant car on the night train. However, additional snacks and drinks can be purchased on the train. You just need to press a call button located in the compartment and a friendly train attendant will bring them to you. While eating some late-night snacks in my comfy bed, I spent some time organizing my notes while trying to figure out what cities we’d passed. Then I realized that whenever I was on a sleeper train, final destinations became irrelevant. What mattered was the atmosphere and the feeling I’d get of entering a novel in which my character boarded night trains as if they were different chapters of a book. Having a glass of wine in the evenings while writing or listening to comforting train sounds sometimes gets me reminiscing about all the train trips I took and some great memories I collected on the way. Falling asleep on such nights is full of some sweet nostalgia.
I woke up at 6am when a sleeper attendant brought my breakfast with all the items I’d selected the night before. I took a quick shower before packing my clothes and leaving the compartment at 7am, feeling energized and enthusiastic about the day ahead. The breakfast was light, and I intentionally didn’t eat it all as the first place I was going to visit was the Naschmarkt, Vienna’s best-known market. After storing my suitcase away in a storage locker at the station, I took a 30-minute walk to the Naschmarkt. Arriving early in Vienna doesn’t give you much choice in terms of joining a tour or visiting a museum since everything starts or opens around 10am. Therefore, I headed first to the place I knew would be interesting to see and where I could treat myself with early morning fresh delicacies.
With a long tradition that dates back to the 16th century when local farmers and merchants coming from overseas brought their products to be sold on the Naschmarkt, this open-air market still offers today a wide range of different culinary experiences. Whether you choose to try some traditional Austrian food or discover supplies from far away places you’d never think you could find here, I’m sure you’ll find it impossible not to buy something tasty to eat. With over 120 food stalls and restaurants that stretch for around 1.5km, this place has become a meeting point of many locals. You might not get that feeling early in the morning as usually regular shoppers use this time for getting their daily supplies; however, at some point during the day everyone ends up here for their daily slice of multi-cultural experience. Whether you’re drawn by its atmosphere or an idea of discovering many food gems at the market, there is this feeling that all the roads lead to the Naschmarkt.
After the market, I was ready to head to the MuseumsQuartier. It took a 15-minute walk to get to one of the largest districts dedicated to contemporary art and culture in Vienna. High on my priority list was the Leopold Museum with the largest collection of Egon Schiele’s works and masterpieces of Oskar Kokoschka and Gustav Klimt. Art lovers will get really excited to see all Schiele’s paintings in one place and observe how his style developed. At the same time, the museum offers a broad insight into Viennese Secession movement led by Gustav Klimt, as well as Austrian expressionist art. I’d say that the Leopold museum is a must if you want to understand better the Austrian art and history from the mid-19th century onwards. With around 6,000 works on display, be sure that you will forget about time here. I’d suggest you plan well this visit because you’ll need at least 3 to 4 hours to enjoy all the artwork. If you find yourself here at lunch time and you get hungry after the visit, the museum’s Café Leopold offers Asian and Viennese cuisine that you can try. If you’d rather go outside, check one of the many cafés and restaurants in this area.
If you’re a book lover too, then you shouldn’t miss the Austrian National Library. Located only 15 minutes away from the MuseumsQuartier, you can purchase a ticket for the State Hall of the library or combine it with one of the museums: Literature, Globe, Papyrus and Esperanto Museum. Being inside the State Hall really makes you understand why this is the most beautiful and impressive hall in all of Vienna. I was standing in awe of this huge hall that is nearly 80 meters long and 20 meters high. The State Hall was built in the 18th century when the emperor Karl VI decided to move the Court Library of the Habsburg empire into a new building. With so many wooden bookcases, statues, columns and giant globes within the hall, as well as numerous ceiling frescoes, I was afraid I would miss out on some precious detail.
The State Hall is home to more than 200,000 volumes that the Austrian National Library has digitized and made accessible to everyone via the online catalog of the library. With 19 reading rooms available, the library is a popular meeting place for many students, researchers and other visitors. During my visit I couldn’t stop wishing I’d had a library with such an imperial flair that I could go to when I was a student. If you have time and you’re staying longer in Vienna, I highly recommend visiting the museums too.
My train for Rome was leaving at 19:20, so I came a bit earlier to the train station to ensure I had time to buy some snacks and water before boarding the train. As a first-class sleeper traveler on the ÖBB train, I decided to wait in the ÖBB lounge and enjoy in a glass of red wine while waiting for departure details to be announced. I was ready to continue enjoying in the comfort of my deluxe single compartment and an overnight ride to Rome. In 14 hours, I was going to be at Roma Termini train station, ready to catch some morning rays of the southern sun.
After filling out a breakfast form and handing it in to a sleeper attendant, I could just relax and spend the time in my private compartment however I wanted. With an en suite bathroom, food that I ordered for dinner and comfortable bed that I could jump right into, I could make myself at home. But what is a luxurious sleeper train without adding some atmosphere? I think that playing some jazz music on the train would’ve been a real bliss to start a journey from Vienna riding on the rhythm. Instead, I span the record on my phone and hit the tracks. Well, that is an experience you can’t buy with an airplane ticket.
You may wonder whether a 14-hour long ride will be too much, but the truth is that you get so comfortable at your wonderful deluxe compartment, that in a blink of a good night’s sleep you find yourself in the center of Rome. Ordering food on the train and having breakfast brought to you at your preferred time in the morning feels just like having a room service. You can take a shower for as long as you want as there’s no one to rush you; all the toiletries are provided, towels and slippers, so you’ll have everything you need. I arrived around 09:30 in Rome rested and refreshed, still humming to myself. That is what I call arriving in style.
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First on my list was to visit the Borghese Gallery. This prestigious gallery is located within the Villa Borghese originating from the 17th century and is home to the works of Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael and Bernini’s sculptures. A collection displayed today is known as the Borghese Collection thanks to the Borghese family whose members had close connections with the Vatican and Camillo Borghese, who took the name of Paul V when he was elected pope. His nephew, Cardinal Scipione Borghese, was a passionate art collector who used his position and influence to acquire some of the most renowned art pieces. Coming into possession of some of the works that visitors can find today at the museum often involved dishonorable deeds on behalf of the Cardinal. To find out more, you can book an individual tour led by specialized art historians who will truly bring the Borghese family and all the artwork closer to you.
Don’t miss seeing Caravaggio’s painting “David with the Head of Goliath” where he depicts himself as the head of Goliath after being accused of murder and fleeing Rome. He sent the painting to the papal court expressing in this way his appeal for pardon. He was pardoned but he died before the news reached him. Other works not to be missed are Caravaggio’s “Boy with a Basket of Fruit” and “Sacred and Profane Love” by Titian, a masterpiece created when he was only 25 years old. When it comes to sculptures, the gallery houses some great Bernini’s works, with “Apollo and Daphne” being the most famous one. The marble work tells the story of metamorphoses, capturing the moment when Daphne turns into tree, leaving Apollo who’s madly in love with her desperate. After having its public debut in 1625, the sculpture by this Baroque artist was characterized as marvel. Almost 400 years later, Bernini’s masterpiece still attracts many art devotees and scholars all over the world.
Use the opportunity to take a stroll through the Villa Borghese gardens, a beautiful green space that offers the perfect escape from usually crowded streets of Rome. You can rent a bike or cart, go horseback riding, or rent rowboats on a small lake. I had some Italian gelato as I walked around the park, simply enjoying a sunny day and serene atmosphere. For a panoramic view of the city, go to the Pincio Terrace that is connected to the Borghese gardens. With the dome of St. Peter’s basilica in the Vatican dominating the skyline, enjoy in a beautiful view of Rome and Piazza del Popolo right below the terrace. Close to this urban square you can find many bars and restaurants with great menus inspired by Italian and Mediterranean cuisine.
From Piazza del Populo there are numerous streets brunching off where you can find everything from old churches, art galleries and museums to various boutiques, cafés and villas where the richest Romans live. Wandering along the cobblestone streets of Centro Storico, I visited the Pantheon, the best preserved ancient Roman monument.
Built as a temple to all gods, Pantheon was the first pagan temple transformed into church in 609. However, it is its majestic architecture and the largest unsupported dome with the eye of the Pantheon, or oculus, that brings today many visitors to this place. The dome with a hole in it is the only source of light and was considered to be the connection to the gods.
Another curiosity you’ll discover is that the height of Pantheon equals to the diameter of the dome (43.3 meters). In the interior you can see the tombs of several Italian kings and poets, as well as one of the greatest Renaissance painter Raphael.
For some “dolce vita” vibes head to one of the rooftops to dine or have some drinks overlooking the eternal city. Five minutes away from the Pantheon is the Hotel Raphael, just behind Piazza Navona. There are two levels of the roof terrace, lower one being more of a bar and serving drinks and the upper one for guests who choose to stay for diner. The whole place offers a cozy, yet a very luxurious feeling. As I relaxed, enjoying my prosecco, I could hear the city in the distance. I won’t tell you about the splendid views from the terrace because that is something you need to experience yourself. And not just see it, but rather feel it with all your senses.
The train to my final and the most southern destination on this journey was leaving at 23h and I was getting really excited about spending the rest of my summer holidays on a beautiful island of Sicily. I made sure that I had my Excelsior first-class single-berth compartment booked in advance because these slightly more luxurious compartments sell out quickly. Paying a little bit extra for an en suite shower and toilet in your cabin is always worth the price. Although it’s far from the luxurious bathrooms you’ll find on let’s say some Russian trains, you will have privacy and at least you won’t have to share a toilet with anyone else. If Excelsior cabins are not available, you can try booking 1, 2 or 3-berth compartments with a washbasin.
I was really tired after a fulfilling day in Rome, so I was looking forward to taking a shower and going straight to bed. An overnight Trenitalia sleeper train to Syracuse takes around 12 hours, but whenever you’re in Italy, especially in the south, time is counted a bit differently and running late doesn’t seem to bother anyone. My advice is to just let it go because you’ll eventually get wherever you’re headed to. It just might take a little bit longer than planned.
My compartment was already in a night mode with clean linen on the bed provided, along with some towels and all the toiletries necessary: soap, toothbrush, toothpaste, cotton pads and cotton buds. I was in bed in no time and although I thought I wouldn’t be getting any sleep because of a group of enthusiastically loud Italians on the train, it turned out that the whole carriage gradually drifted off. I woke up early in the morning as I didn’t want to miss the train boarding the ferry to Messina. I considered myself quite lucky as I got to experience being on a train ferry twice on this journey. Compared to crossing the Baltic sea that lasted almost 4 hours, the ferry going from the mainland Italy to Sicily took no longer than 30 minutes. However, the process of shunting the train onto and off the ferry is the same and it takes time.
You can stay in your compartment during the ferry crossing but trust me when I tell you that the views of Sicily as you’re approaching Messina are worth going up on deck. I got my morning cup of coffee provided to sleeper passengers and greeted this sunny island from the top of the deck. Feeling the sea air in my nose was the best start of the day, leaving me with an overwhelming desire to go and explore the island that very second.
I still had a few hours before reaching Syracuse, so back at the compartment I enjoyed looking at the scenery. I used the time I had left to charge my phone and eat a croissant that I’d got on the ferry. Bear in mind that there isn’t a restaurant car on this sleeper train and that you will be provided with only one bottle of water in your compartment. A train attendant has a limited selection of drinks and snacks that you can order, so you might want to consider getting some water and food before boarding the train.
My railway odyssey was coming to an end and another adventure in Sicily awaited me. I was happy to be in Syracuse again and I was looking forward to going back to the Greek theatre. The annual Greek Theatre Festival takes place here every year from mid-May to the end of June, so if you happen to be here at that time, don’t miss this experience. You’ll get to see Greek tragedies and comedies performed in various languages by different theatre ensembles coming from all over the world. Many years ago, I had a pleasure of performing at this festival and that experience is one of the fondest memories I cherish. If you come to the Greek theatre as a spectator, get ready to be taken back in time. As the sun sets, you’ll get to enjoy watching the same classical plays that were performed here in the 5th century BC.
Summer is an interesting time to be in Sicily as there are many festivities going on. Almost every town celebrates its patron saint and these ceremonies are a unique combination of religious rituals and traditions. People here are very proud of their history that was marked by legacy of many different cultures and ethnicities. The island has plenty to offer, whether you’re eager to discover various cultural heritage sites or simply head to one of the beaches. The most difficult task though will be choosing which one to go to. I was ready to face these sweet torture moments and say goodbye to sleeper trains for some time.
And so, in Syracuse my railway journey ended. My summer hikes in the nature in Norway combined with beach holidays in Sicily could’ve been connected by a flight or two. But what about all the fun I would’ve missed? I took six sleeper trains, two train ferries and got to visit five European cities along the way. That is quite an experience to have and I wouldn’t have done it differently.
In a fast-paced world, I enjoy making train itineraries that allow me to travel stress free. Night trains are perfect for visiting adjoining countries while getting to sleep in mostly comfortable, more or less luxurious compartments. With enough time to sleep and enjoy the rolling countryside, each ride is different and unique as you witness landscapes and sceneries shifting. Your compartment is completely yours for the night: for all the shower concerts, late wine nights, book readings, diary writing or some music playing. And in the morning, you arrive in the center of the city ready to set out on a new adventure.
So…have you started packing yet?